Part 9: Exploring Santiago de Compostela: What to See and Do

After walking nearly 200 miles, much of which was in the rain, it was surreal to be walking the last miles into Santiago de Compostela. We’d stayed at a nearby hotel and were watching the weather to break so that we could complete our Camino. We only had 4.5 miles to go, and I wanted to savor the experience.

The Last Miles

The last few miles are through the city, leading to the cathedral. You get a first glimpse of the cathedral spires well before arriving, adding to the excitement even more. It was very busy and a bit narrow, quite crowded with other pilgrims and locals. There was an excitement and rush in the air, but I tried to savor each moment.

I wasn’t sure how I’d feel once we reached the cathedral. I’d read that some are overwhelmed with emotions, while others are a little underwhelmed. I mentally prepared myself for either. I’m not an overly emotional person, so I wasn’t surprised that I felt more excitement and giddiness than tears. It really was a mix of contradictory emotions. Relief knowing we didn't have to get up the next day and walk. Excitement that we could rest. Sadness that it was over, but anticipation of exploring Santiago de Compostela.

Receiving our Compostelas

I had wanted to arrive at the cathedral by early afternoon so we could get our compostela certificate that same day, and also to sit in the cathedral square to watch other pilgrims complete their Camino. The Pilgrim office was not busy at all, so it only took a few minutes to obtain the certificate and be on our way. This meant we had all afternoon and evening to enjoy the city!

Staying in Santiago de Compostela

We were able to check into our apartment early, which was great, so that we could leave our backpacks. We stayed right in the heart of the city, just 164 feet from the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral. We were able to see the spires from our window, as well as the seminary building. The views from the apartment were fantastic at all times of the day. This was a great place to spend a couple of days in the city after completing the Camino.

We went back to the square, but it began to rain, so we didn’t get that experience of watching pilgrims complete their walk. We wandered the streets looking for cover from the rain by checking out some shops, grabbed some snacks at a bar, got ice cream, went to the pilgrims museum, and continued to wander around town. We were only slightly hungry by the time we headed back to the apartment. We stopped at a deli for bread, meats, cheese, and fruit. We still hadn’t had enough of those foods! We enjoyed our late dinner sitting in front of a window overlooking the streets. There were groups of people all night long out, and I loved overhearing little bits of their conversations or just the overall excitement of the area.

The Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela

The next day, we started the day with the cathedral tour, including walking on the roofs!! Honestly, we weren't sure what this tour would be like since it only cost 10 euros per person. We figured it would give us access to see the roof, and that alone was worth more than the price of admission. This tour completely shattered our expectations and was so impressive! We were told our guide didn’t speak much English, but would translate the best she could. She did an amazing job teaching us so many things about the cathedral, the architecture, the history, etc. It truly was the highlight of being in Santiago de Compostela!

We chose the rooftop tour because we thought it would be amazing to see the area from up above. We didn't realize how much time we'd literally be walking on the roof. Our guide took us to several locations on the roof to teach us about the cathedral and the surrounding area. The fun facts included in this tour were things we wouldn't have otherwise learned while in the area.

Mass was about to start after the tour, so this worked out perfectly. We did have to exit the cathedral and wait in line outside before the doors to open. The line was quite long, and we didn't get a seat inside, but there was plenty of standing room. The mass was in Spanish, of course, so we didn't understand the words, but it was pretty easy to follow along since we both grew up Catholic.

At the end of the mass, we were lucky enough to be treated to the boufoumeira. The boufoumeria is a famous giant thurible, a metal incense burner, which requires eight men to operate. It is generally used for special occasions, but individuals can also pay for and book the boufoumeira. Attending mass and seeing the boufoumeira completed the trip for me! I had hoped we'd be able to have this experience.

Lunch

Keith requested Paella while in Spain. I’m not sure I’ve ever had the Spanish dish, so I was excited to try something new. We ended up walking by a restaurant advertising their paella, and we hadn’t really had lunch, so we jumped at the chance. It was so flavorful and included many types of seafood. We were hungrier than we thought and scraped the dish clean.

More Exploring and Dinner

After lunch, we continued to walk around, exploring more of the streets of Santiago. We checked out some of the souvenir shops, jewelry stores, meats and seafood in store windows, etc. Eventually, we walked to a park on the outside of town that was closed the day before because of the storm. It was so relaxing and nice to wander around without a plan or destination to reach. As we headed back into the busier parts of town, we stopped for coffee and dessert, sitting in the courtyard to people watch. We decided to head back to the room for a little rest and to start packing up since we’d be leaving early in the morning.

We decided on a more traditional Spanish dinner time of 8:30 pm at a local tapas bar. It was a great choice to celebrate our accomplishments with the Camino and our time in Santiago de Compostela. Once again, we walked around town after dinner and decided we may as well get dessert since it was our last night! I had heard so much about getting Pastel de nata, a Portuguese egg custard tart pastry, and had never gotten one the whole time we were in Portugal, so I decided this was my last chance for it to be authentic. What a fantastic way to wrap up the day and our Camino!

Upcoming Post

The next morning, we walked to the train station to begin our journey home, which included a night in Paris!  Check back next week when I tell you about the night in Paris, as well as the day in Amsterdam on the way to Portugal. Plus, our time in Porto before beginning the Camino!

Wrapping up the Camino and spending time in Santiago de Compostela felt like a vacation within a vacation! Have you ever been on a trip where it felt that way? Let us know in the comments section below.👇 💬